No sand. Flat rock shelves, iron ladders straight into deep blue water, and the sun going down in front of you. The port's own swimming pool, and in October you have it to yourself.
Checking the water.
Sunrise 07:42 · sunset 19:41 today at Cala Llamp.
This is where the people who live in the port swim. There is no beach, which is why the beach crowd never comes. You walk down through the villas, out onto the rock platforms, climb down a ladder and you are in ten metres of water so clear you can count the fish below your feet. Snorkel mask, nothing else.
Half the cove is taken by Gran Folies, the beach club. Honest numbers: 4.2 from 2,700 reviews, a hundred euros a head, and the reviews are in every language except Catalan. It is a good pool and a good day if that is what you want. But the rocks to the left of it are public, free, and better. Take the path down past the club entrance and keep going.
Go at eight. The rock is still cool, the water is glass, and the light comes over the hill behind you and lands on Dragonera in the distance. Swim out, turn round, look at the cliffs. Then coffee.
The swim. Ladder on the left platform. Nobody there.
Back up for breakfast, or stay: the rock warms up and the snorkelling is best before the boats arrive.
If it is a club day, Gran Folies for lunch by the pool. Book a lounger in season. Otherwise, home.
Back down with a bottle. The cove faces the sunset. Sit on the warm rock until the light goes.
Paella, calamari, oysters, cocktails, a pool over the sea. Expensive and knows it. The purple area is the quieter corner, say the regulars.
The next cove west. No ladders, no club, no people. The locals' locals' cove.
A pocket of pebbles and rock at the foot of the hill that only appears on the local map. Look for the path from the end of the road.
The sand beach with the island restaurant, for the day you want sand.
Back to the harbour for the evening walk and Capri.
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